TMG Blog

Yamazaki and why Japanese distilleries do not swap casks

Here is a problem that has nothing to do with taste and everything to do with company law. Imagine you run a malt distillery in Scotland. You make one spirit, from one still shape, in one place. To build a blend with any complexity, you need other people's whisky, and you get it the way everyone there has always got it: you swap casks with the distillery down the road. They send you theirs, you send them yours, and the whole industry runs on a quiet trading network that has existed for over a century.

Now move the same distillery to Japan in 1923. There is no network. There are two or three companies in the entire country and they are direct commercial rivals. Nobody is going to send you casks, because helping you build a better blend is the last thing they want to do. You have one site, one water source, and no external supply at all.

Almost everything distinctive about Japanese whisky follows from that constraint. If you cannot buy variety, you have to manufacture it yourself, inside your own fences.

How you build a whole industry inside one building

Yamazaki was the distillery where this got worked out. Suntory's answer was to stop thinking of a distillery as a machine that makes one spirit and start thinking of it as a machine that makes many.

The shape of a pot still changes what comes off it. Tall stills with long necks force more reflux, so the vapour has to condense and re-rise several times before it escapes, and only the lightest compounds make it through. Short, squat stills let heavier, oilier material carry over. In Scotland a distillery typically has one pair of stills in one shape, and that shape is its fingerprint. Yamazaki installed stills in a range of shapes and sizes, deliberately, so that a single site could produce light spirit and heavy spirit and several things in between. Different yeasts and different fermentation lengths widen the range further.

Then the same logic gets applied to wood. American oak, ex-sherry butts, and Japanese mizunara, an oak that is difficult to work with, leaks more than it should, and gives an incense and sandalwood character that nothing else gives. None of these were choices about heritage. They were choices about coverage. If you cannot trade, you stock your own library.

What comes out of that library and into a bottle is what actually separates one Yamazaki from another. Not, as most people assume, simply the number on the label.

What we have

The Yamazaki range splits into three practical groups.

The no-age-statement bottling is the broad house blend, drawing from across the library without committing to a minimum age. The gift box version sits a little above a thousand dollars and is the most sensible way into the house style: light, faintly fruity, a small amount of mizunara showing at the back.

The 12 Year Old narrows the selection and adds weight. This is the bottle that made the distillery's reputation outside Japan and it remains the reference point.

Above that, everything changes character as a purchase. The 18 Year Old is where the older sherry and mizunara components carry the whisky rather than decorate it, and it costs several times the 12. The vintage limited editions are one-off assemblies that will not be made again, and the anniversary and revised-packaging releases are priced on scarcity of the box as much as scarcity of the liquid.

There is also a 5cl sample of the standard bottling, which for under a hundred dollars answers a question that is otherwise expensive to answer.

What we would pick, and why

Start with the 5cl sample if you have never had this whisky and are only curious. It is not a serious purchase and it is not meant to be. It is the difference between finding out you do not care for the style for the price of a coffee and finding out for the price of a thousand-dollar bottle.

The 12 Year Old is the pick if you want one bottle and want it to be the right one. Around fifteen hundred dollars, it has enough weight to be interesting and enough restraint to stay drinkable, and it is the only bottling in the range where the price and what is in the glass are still arguing on roughly equal terms.

The 18 is genuinely a better whisky and we would not pretend otherwise. It is deeper, longer, and the mizunara has had time to do something rather than just appear. Whether it is five times better is a question you should answer before ordering, not after.

Where the money stops buying flavour

Above the 12, price in this category has largely detached from liquid. Japanese whisky ran out of aged stock roughly a decade ago because nobody in the 1990s forecast the demand that arrived in the 2010s, and the shortfall cannot be fixed faster than time passes. What that means in practice is that the 18 and the limited editions are priced by an auction market, not by a production cost, and a good chunk of that market never intends to open anything.

Hong Kong sits close to the centre of that market, which has two effects worth being honest about. Bottles here are easy to find and hard to price sanely, and the gifting function is doing a lot of the work. A Yamazaki 18 handed across a table communicates something specific and expensive, and if that is the job you need done, it does it better than almost anything else at the price. Just be clear that you are buying a signal, and the signal costs more than the whisky.

Who should not buy up this range: anyone who wants intensity. This is not a loud style. It is built on restraint, and someone who loves heavily sherried Speyside or peated Islay may find the 18 quiet rather than deep, and will have paid a great deal to feel that. Try the 12 first. If it reads as understated rather than subtle, the more expensive bottles will read the same way, only more so.

先の
William Fevre, Chablis and what Kimmeridgian rock does