Piedmont

Piedmont

The north-west corner of Italy, at the foot of the Alps. Piedmont is where Italy makes its longest-lived red wine, and it does so from a single difficult grape: Nebbiolo.

Nebbiolo and the rest

Barolo and Barbaresco are both Nebbiolo, from neighbouring zones in the Langhe hills — Barolo the bigger and slower, Barbaresco usually the earlier-drinking of the two. Langhe Nebbiolo and Nebbiolo d'Alba are the same grape without the long ageing requirement, and are the cheapest way to learn the flavour. Alongside them, Barbera is the region's everyday red — high acid, low tannin, made to be drunk young — and Dolcetto is softer still. In white, Gavi is dry Cortese; Moscato d'Asti is the sweet, barely-sparkling one.

What to expect

Nebbiolo is pale in colour and heavy in tannin, which surprises people who expect dark wine to be the tough one. Young Barolo is genuinely hard work; a bottle with ten years on it is a different wine. If you are buying to drink this month, buy Langhe Nebbiolo or Barbera. If you are buying to keep, Barolo is one of the few reds that reliably repays it.

Serving

Nebbiolo at 16–18°C, decanted well ahead — two hours is not excessive for a young Barolo. Barbera and Dolcetto need nothing. Gavi at 10–12°C, Moscato d'Asti at 6–8°C.

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