Australia & NZ White

White wine is where Australia and New Zealand are least predictable, and where the regional label does most of the work.

Clare Valley and Eden Valley are the reference points for Australian dry Riesling — high acidity, no residual sugar, and a track record of ageing. The Hunter Valley makes Semillon at low alcohol that is designed to be kept rather than opened young. Chardonnay comes from cool sites: Adelaide Hills, Margaret River, Yarra Valley, Tasmania. Margaret River also produces Sauvignon Blanc–Semillon blends, a different construction from the single-variety style.

New Zealand's Marlborough built the modern reputation of Sauvignon Blanc, and its Chardonnay and aromatic whites are made in the same maritime conditions.

Read the region first; the grape name alone will not tell you what is in the glass.