China
Chinese Wine
China has been making wine commercially for about forty years and seriously for about fifteen. The interesting part is not that it exists — it is how fast the map has moved. A decade ago the answer to "where does Chinese wine come from" was Shandong. Today it is four or five regions, most of them at an altitude or latitude that would have looked absurd in 1990.
The regions
Ningxia, on the eastern foot of the Helan Mountains, is the centre of gravity — desert margin, around 1,100 metres, and vines buried by hand every winter to survive a cold that would otherwise kill them. Cabernet Sauvignon leads. Yunnan, in the far south-west near Gyalthang, grows above 2,000 metres; the wines are lighter and more aromatic. Huailai, north-west of Beijing, is a cooler basin and the home of much of the country's more experimental winemaking. Shandong on the coast is the oldest region and the wettest.
What to expect
Chinese wine is not inexpensive, and the reasons are structural rather than commercial. Land and labour cost what they cost, the volumes are small, and in Ningxia every vine is buried in November and lifted again in April — a labour cost no European region carries.
Serving
Ningxia Cabernet at 16–18°C, decanted. Yunnan and Huailai wines are lighter: 14–16°C for reds, 10–12°C for whites and skin-contact bottlings.
One more glass
Chinese wine is usually sold on its story: the altitude, the buried vines, the medal count. It is worth separating the story from the glass. Burying vines is remarkable, but it is a cost of production — it explains the price, not the taste. Nothing about it tells you whether you will enjoy the bottle.
The method that works here is the same one that works anywhere: pour it blind, at the same price point, next to something you already know, and see which glass empties. That result is yours, not ours, and it is the only one that matters at your table.
Filters
Helan Hong Jiangnan Edition Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Red Wine 2018 (1x75cl)
Xiao Pu 小圃釀造 x Old Apple and Pear Cider 2022 (1x75cl)
Skyline of Gobi Grand Reserve Marselan, Xinjiang 2019 (1x75cl)
Xiao Pu 小圃釀造 Someone in the Crowd Claret Rose 2021 (1x75cl)
Xiao Pu 小圃釀造 x 懷來 Viognier 2021 (1x75cl)
Legacy Peak Family Heritage 2021 (1x75cl)
XIGE ESTATE Jade Dove Single Vineyard Cabernet Gernischt 2021 (1x75cl)
Legacy Peak Kalavinka Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (1x75cl)
Kanaan Black Beauty Ningxia Helan Mountain Cabernet Merlot 2016 (1x75cl)
Longyu Barrel Aged Cabernet Sauvignon Blanc De Noir 2021 (1x75cl)
MYSTIC ISLAND 逸湖霞多麗高級乾白葡萄酒 Yihu Chardonnay Reserve Dry White Wine 2021 (1x75cl)
XIGE ESTATE Xige Year of The Snake Edition Red Blend 2021 (1x75cl)
XIGE ESTATE Xige N609 (Cab Sauv, Cab Gernischt, Malbec) 2020 (1x75cl)
DOMAINE DE LONG DAI 瓏岱 Long Dai (Cabernet Sauvignon, Marselan, Cabernet Franc) 2018 (1x75cl)
DOMAINE DE LONG DAI 瓏岱 Long Dai (Cabernet Sauvignon, Marselan, Cabernet Franc) 2017 (1x75cl)
Dongqu Primary Single Vintage Shaoxing Wine 冬趣初過濾 2009 (1x70cl)
Kwei Chow Moutai Flying Fairy Year of the Rooster HKCPPCC Edition 2017 (Gift Box) (1x50cl)
Kwei Chow Moutai HK Friends of Moutai Special Edition 2017 (Gift Box) (1x50cl)
Kwei Chow Flying Fairy Precious Moutai Yellow Ribbon Edition 2016 (475ml, Gift Box) (1x50cl)
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