Henri Giraud

Henri Giraud is a grower-house in Ay, a grand cru village on the Marne with a long reputation for Pinot Noir. What separates it from nearly everyone else in Champagne is the vessel. Much of the wine is fermented and aged in oak barrels made from Argonne forest wood rather than in stainless steel. The oak is not there as a flavour additive. It lets a small, steady amount of oxygen reach the wine, which builds texture and body and shortens the wine's future rather than lengthening it.

The range starts with Blanc de Craie, the chalk-driven Chardonnay bottling, and Esprit Nature and Hommage au Pinot Noir, which show the Ay fruit plainly. Dame Jane is the rose. Above them the MV series blends several vintages held in barrel, and Argonne is the top wine, one vintage raised entirely in Argonne oak. The house also makes still Coteaux Champenois and a solera-aged ratafia.

Past the MV tier, price tracks scarcity and barrel time more than drinkability. The barrel character is already fully present lower down, and anyone who dislikes that oxidative texture will dislike it at every price here.

The list below is sorted by price, lowest first.