Henri Giraud Esprit Nature (1x75cl)

The Champagne Henri Giraud motto is “Let nothing be banned and nothing be obligatory – just make good wine naturally”, with ‘naturally’ here used in the sense of ‘by nature’. A totally new wine to the range replacing Esprit Brut. 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay. With 50% reserve wines matured in small casks made of oak from the forest of Argonne and in ovoid (egg-shaped) vats. The latest iteration of Henri Giraud’s door-opener wine is an interesting step-up in quality and shows much closer overall alliance to the house style. Although the fruit is sourced from old friends of the family in the Ay region (rather than estate-owned) it’s clearly been conscientiously brought in to the fold: There is the characteristic richness, and savoury, umami character of the maison, and the blend is typically Pinot Noir-rich (80%, the remaining 20% now all Chardonnay). 50% of the reserve wine is aged in Giraud’s signature Argonne oak and the remainder in Tuscan terracotta demi-johns. The wines spends two years in bottle (double the requirement for a standard Champagne non-vintage and all this adds up to is an impressively ample, powerful and vinous mouthful.